WONDER + WANDER
Thinking + Going
My Guide to Visiting London for a Few Days
I’m really happy to live in a place that friends want to see. Many visitors come for a few days as a part of wider Euro-trip. Some have been to the city before but often for just a few days before as well so they still have much to see. You know how the saying goes “those who tire of London tire of living.” I get that you might also just be tired from travel, so don’t be too hard on yourself if you don’t squeeze all of London in. Believe me: There’s too much for that to ever be possible in the first place. Unless you want to move too? ;)
Keep reading below for my ideas on what to do when you visit London for 1-3 days.
The 101 basics
Paying for things
Don’t pay to use your own money: Obviously London uses the Great British Pound. Make sure you have a credit card with no foreign transaction fees, and ideally a bank account with none as well. Not sure? Need a rec for a card / account that meets these criteria? I can help!
We’re almost cashless: London is SO FAR AHEAD of the US when is comes to card and wireless payment. You really won’t use cash here (except for the occasional cover at a bar or club). I use a a card 99% of the time. Always good to have some on hand, but if you have the right card added to your Apple Pay you will be fine.
Apple Pay is easiest: When I say I use a card 99% of the time, I mean I use Apple Pay 98.5% of the time. US cards default to chip and signature. London handles this far better than when I was here for grad school, but it’s still annoying when everyone else’s just uses a pin. Some now come with tap to pay as well (if you have a WiFi symbol on your card, you’re set). But the limit on tap to pay is often £30, and the limits to wireless payments seem to not exist (eg, the limit at my grocery store is £10K). Make sure to have your Apple / Android / Samsung Pay set up with your no foreign fee card before you come. Ask the person checking you out or look for the WiFi symbol to know you can use it.
Getting around
Oysters are obsolete: Not the tasty sea animal, the travel card system. Remember what I said about Apple Pay being king? This applies here too. There is no cost saving to buying an oyster travel card because there are daily / weekly caps on card payment. Just make sure to use the same card.
Don’t get lost, get an app: CityMapper far succeeds Google maps when it comes to public transport directions. Download it!
Still got lost? Get a black cab: The traditional black cabbies have the city memorized. If you’re lost or exhausted, a quick escape home is telling them the post code of where you are staying and maybe a cross street or the general area. (Not lost but not feeling public transport? Uber is here too)
Buses are a treat: I remember my joy at learning that the double decker buses were the public buses. My joy at sitting at the top front has not subsided. They may take a little bit longer than the tube, but you get to see so much. If you have a little extra time, choose one.
Airport options: Coming from the airport you have options for an express train, totally public transport, an uber, a cab or a combo. Do a little research and decide what’s right for you. With more than a carry on I like to do a cab + express train combo
The Sights. I'd recommend picking one of these a day. They are all pretty massive but all so worth it.
The Tower Of London
This is my #1 must see in London. Its an incredibly old castle and holds the crown jewels! When you go, get a walking tour with a Beefeater. They are basically royally employed solider - comedians.
The area around it is beautiful as well. Tower bridge, city hall, and some of the biggest buildings in the City. The big pointy building is called the Shard and is owned by Qatar. It is possible to go up it for sightseeing, but the best deal is to go up for a drink at Gong. Fun fact, I work just across from the Tower.
The Victoria & Albert Museum. This has everything - fashion, ancient art, paintings etc. My favorite museum in the city so I’m a member which means i + guest see exhibitions for free (visitor perk). The jewelry and glass exhibits are amazing.
The British Museum. Go here to see all the things that Great Britain stole (and is regularly asked to give back). A lot of the Parthenon is here, mummys, Chinese art etc. It's spectacular, but does take a while to get through so prioritize what artifacts interest you most instead of trying to see it all
Pair: The National Gallery " The story of European art, masterpiece by masterpiece. Go see all the greats here. Van Gogh and Renoir are my favorites.
Pair: Buckingham Palace. The National Gallery and Buckingham palace are connected by a road called the mall. I'd recommend seeing them both at the same time.
The palace is only open to tour at certain times of the year and you need to get a ticket ahead of time.
The changing of the guard only happens on certain days, check out when online.
Take a wander through St. James park if you need a little break.
Bonus: Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament are also in this area!
Big Bus tour
If you want an overview of the city and to cover a lot of ground, try a hop on hop off bus. These aren't too touristy - they have good tour guides (get a live one, not recorded) and you see more than you could ever on foot.
I don't have a preferred one. A quick google or stop on trip advisor is your best bet!
Shopping: Welcome to one of the world's fashion capitals and home to fabulous department stores. You have much to see.
Generally, there are three department stores that I think are 'must see'
Harrods: spin through the diamond hall and try to guess what they are worth. Gorgeous clothes, amazing food hall.
Fortnum and Mason: this is my FAVE. It is known for the food hall and home goods like tea pots. This is a great place to get souvenirs like tea & cookies. The hamper (aka picnic basket) is iconic. It’s located on Regents Street, my favorite street. So picturesque and luxurious.
Liberty of London: this is the oldest and most British department store. It is known for the floral prints it creates. This is located on Carnaby, a nice pedestrian walkable area with stores.
Bonus - Selfridges: this is the most shopable one. It is trendy and has younger items.
There are many flagship stores that are worth your time. Here are a few.
Burberry: located on Regents Street - many stories and generally friendly staff who are used to browsers
Top Shop: located just outside of the Oxford Station Tube. Super Hip.
Nike: also right outside Oxford Station. It's a high tech store that often has music bumping.
Oxford street is the main shopping area. Many Zaras <3 and every other store you can think of. I think if you can go mid day it will be somewhat less busy.
Eating: London has many diverse cuisines and every major chef has a restaurant here. Where you / we eat will very much depend on taste, budget and table availability. Many restaurants either require bookings and book out early, or don't take them so there are lines.
Markets: An easy, fun one to knock out is Borough Market. I think it’s the best market in London, great for lunch / early afternoon. Many stalls sell top notch produce and great food. It's in the Tower Bridge area so good to attach to your touring there.
A few great restaurants. There’s no way I could cover or eat everything. I regularly refer to this list when looking for ideas of where to eat.
Dishoom: multiple locations, considered some of the best Indian in London. Will have a long wait at prime times. Not over the top. I highly recommend this.
NOPI: upscale Mediterranean restaurant by my favorite chef Otollenghi. Think fresh salads, lots of herbs, grilled veggies. He also has more casual places under his name, Otollenghi. Great!
Hawksmoor: top notch steak place
Flat Iron Steak or Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecôte: both of these restaurants specialize in one thing - a perfectly cooked steak with simple sides. That's either all they serve or all you should order. I think reasonably priced. Both have multiple locations. I prefer the difficult to say french one. You start with a green salad, then they bring you fries and half your steak with an amazing sauce, keeping the other half warm until you a ready.
Gails: A chain, but my favorite place for baked goods.
I can get really good recs for Chinese if you are into it! Dim sum / dumplings
Duck & Waffle: England's take on chicken and waffles and oh-so-good. Fancy and also open 24hrs.
Sunday lunch at a pub. Do your research here please. If it looks like the building/signage is doing too much work to draw you in, it is a tourist trap or just a pub with bad food.
Afternoon Tea: This is a decadent meal, traditionally eaten around 3pm. It's a lot o food.
FANCY: Ritz or Fortnum & Mason. Def require reservations
You may have gotten a rec for Sketch. I don't recommend. It's super pretty but the food isn't great.
Reasonable but still nice: The Ivy. This is a british cafe with a few locations. I'd prioritize going to their garden-esque place in Chelsea if it makes sense for your schedule, but any one will be good. Good to have reservations as well.
An option almost anywhere you will stop is Cream Tea. This is a smaller version of the tea serving where you get two scones, clotted cream (like sweet cream cheese) and jam. Great option if you don't want the full thing. I'd suggest this at one of the museums.
Bars:
Gordon’s wine bar. I’m a bit of an embarrassing fan girl over this place. A friend introduced me to it during LBS. It has great atmosphere, history, cheese plates and of course wine! It’s always super busy, particularly in the evenings but still worth it.
Any of the Mr. Foggs. This group wins awards often for their bar experiences. The cocktails are very creative. I’ve been to three!
Milroys. If you like whisky, head here. There a small shop front where you can taste drams. At the back there is a bookcase that serves as a secret door down to their bar. You can reserve here but I’ve been lucky to get a table most times. It’s a not so hidden gem.
Transatlantic Travel Tips
Since I moved to London in September, I’ve been on 7 transatlantic flights. Here’s how I survive in economy:
Make a to do list. You have about 8 hours. For me, even if it’s dumb stuff like “read magazine” I enjoy checking it off. And it keeps me from staring off into the void wondering when the plane will land. When you’re flying overnight, much of this to-do list should include sleep!
If you’re nervous about the food, order ahead. You normally need to do so about 24 hours ahead. The Asian-vegetarian is the go to for many people who don’t actually have food sensitivity but feel yucky after plane food. I tried this on a Virgin flight and was very pleased. I had a daal of some kind and fresh fruit. You’ll also get your food earlier if you’re eager to get straight to sleep. (Remember, overnight flights sleep is key)
When your tray comes, everything is going to be very cold except for the main. Take your bread and butter and let them warm a little on top of the foil before you open the main. On American, I’ll prefer to bring my food all together after some really poor meals. Lately some cut fruit has been great. This saves money and calories at the airport.
Bring a note book and pen and reflect. How often do you get uninterrupted time? Take advantage of this. I’ve done work planning and life planning. I have a special journal given as a gift before heading to London that I use only for the plane. I really look forward to breaking it out.
Overnight, in order to get to sleep, it’s important to keep your routine. This helps trick your body it’s time for bed. For me this means bringing toothpaste / toothbrush, face wash and moisturizer. It’s a great way to use samples. I use an amazing tool to refill toothpaste so I don’t have to keep buying tubes. Important: get fresh water from the galley to wash your face and brush your teeth. That sink water is not for drinking.
Speaking of water, planes are really dehydrating. If you leave feeling like you have a headache, that’s likely why. There are easy ways to combat this. Water is always available in the galley. Stretch your legs and go get some. Bring or buy a big water bottle. I’ve been on the hunt for a pack flat one. Always ask for water during the beverage service along with whatever your actually want. Hot water with lemon is a great way to stay warm, hydrated and digest.
There are a few other things I do for comfort: (a) Neck pillow. Mine is very basic, bought out of desperation. I actually use it to lean on more than around my neck. (b) Socks to change into. I can’t stay in my shoes the whole time. Recently I went super extra and brought some hard bottomed slippers. Top! I bought my parents compression socks for Christmas to prevent blood clots and help with swelling though I haven’t personally tried them yet. (c) I dress comfortably. Leggings, sweater, tennis shoes. Something that looks good in public but prioritizes comfort.
Lately I’ve been checking seatguru before choosing my seat. Got a great one I wouldn’t have chosen other wise for my flight home from Christmas because of this.
On long haul, don’t bother with basic economy. It’s just going to be around 100 dollars cheaper, you’re more likely to get bumped and if you check a bag, it’ll be more than the cost of the other seat
When you finally get to your seat, plan ahead and pull out everything you need. Your little items (chapstick, gum, pen, meds) should be in a little bag. It’s much easier than having to dig through your bag under your seat or in the overhead every time you need.
I’m sure I’ll have more tips as 2019 passes. Already have 8 transatlantic flights on the calendar. I hope these help you a little!
Passing time on the tube
Things to do on the tube instead of staring at your phone:
Sleep. I don’t advise this, though it is a popular choice
Read a free newspaper
Memorize the stops
Count the stops
Quiz yourself on the stops
Basically anything related to the stops.
Rate the advertisements. Memorize those too
When standing, avoid smelling your neighbors armpit without looking rude
Will yourself not to sweat. Works in all seasons. Stare longingly at the vent or window if someone has forgotten to open it. Will it to open.
Make up stories about the person who made the doors pop back open. Do they still have all their limbs? Will they now make the appointment that caused them to go running at the doors? Visualize how you will one day go running at the doors and successfully not ram your shoulder into one.
Plot your next shoe purchase. You have plenty of inspiration, good and bad.
What did I miss? How do you make the most of your ride?
Why London: Walking
A simple example of why I chose to sell my car and move to London - a more active life style.
The arrows show when I arrived in the city and the first week after that.
Here’s another more succinct view. I moved to the Sept 1st. Look at the months that follow compared to the months before!
VIDEO: My one way ticket to London
I treated myself to a business class upgrade for the flight to London. Here are a few shots from the flight meal service (I am who I am, why fight it).
